The ’90s Teen Comedy Clueless And Its Influence On Pop Culture
The first time I watched Clueless (1995), I was just starting high school. Back then, renting movies from video stores was still a common practice. Many will fondly recall Blockbuster, the beloved video rental chain that was a staple of those years. Clueless was among the most popular rentals, especially in its home country, the United States.
From my first viewing, I fell in love with Clueless. It's a film I still frequently rewatch today. I believe that director Amy Heckerling, along with the cast and crew, had no idea how much Clueless would resonate with future generations; it has since become one of the most successful teen comedies of all time, leaving a significant mark on popular culture.
Clueless is a remarkably postmodern film inspired by one of Jane Austen's classic novels; it is essentially a contemporary retelling of Emma. The story revolves around Cher Horowitz (Alicia Silverstone), a wealthy teenager living in a Beverly Hills mansion with her father, lawyer Mel Horowitz (Dan Hedaya). Her former stepbrother, Josh (Paul Rudd), is also staying with them for a while.
At first glance, Cher appears to be a girl solely interested in spending money and buying expensive clothes. However, as the film progresses, we see her evolving into someone who genuinely cares about the well-being of others. She starts giving her friends makeovers, with the new girl at school, Tai (played by the late Brittany Murphy), being her primary project. Cher also takes on the role of matchmaker, helping her friends find love. Throughout these efforts, Cher gradually realizes that in her quest to improve others' lives, she has been neglecting her own growth and happiness.
Director Amy Heckerling, fresh off the success of Fast Times at Ridgemont High (1982), which depicted the absurdities of high school life, masterfully parodies the lives of teenagers at Beverly Hills High School (fictionally named Bronson Alcott High School) in Clueless. The film takes a satirical approach, poking fun at the opulence and idiosyncrasies of its young characters.
While reminiscent of some John Hughes classics from the 1980s, such as Sixteen Candles (1984), The Breakfast Club (1985), and Some Kind of Wonderful (1987), Clueless stands out as a precursor to the late 1990s teen comedy genre. It is a feel-good movie that contrasts sharply with the dark comedy Heathers (1989), which offered a nihilistic take on high school cliques (I thoroughly enjoyed Heathers and even watched its musical adaptation in London’s West End).
Alicia Silverstone is perfect as Cher, previously known for her roles in Aerosmith music videos and the feature film The Crush (1993), which I found particularly creepy but well-made. Other notable cast members include Paul Rudd as Josh (I had a big crush on him as a teenager!), Stacey Dash as Dionne, Cher’s best friend, who, along with Donald Faison as Murray, forms a hilariously dynamic high school couple. Elisa Donovan plays Amber, Cher’s nemesis, and the late Brittany Murphy stars as the new student, Tai. I adored Brittany Murphy as an actress; she was also fantastic in the comedy Uptown Girls (2003). It is truly sad that she is no longer with us. Yhara Zayd created a beautiful tribute to her on YouTube titled The Forgotten Legacy of Brittany Murphy, which is incredibly moving and highly recommended.
Other standout male characters include high schoolers Travis (Breckin Meyer), Elton (Jeremy Sisto), and Christian (Justin Walker), as well as Mr. Wendell Hall, Cher’s teacher at Bronson Alcott High, played by Wallace Shawn. Shawn is a familiar face, known for numerous roles, including Blair Waldorf’s stepfather in the TV series Gossip Girl (2007-2012).
Clueless remains popular nearly 30 years after its theatrical release due to several factors, one being its foresight into technological trends. In the movie, Cher and Dionne frequently talk on cell phones, which were the bulky Nokia or Motorola models with antennas typical of the '90s. At the time, cell phone use was not widespread among high school students, making this portrayal ahead of its time. Additionally, Cher uses computer software to create fashion looks from her wardrobe, a concept that can be seen as a precursor to modern style apps. It is as if Amy Heckerling predicted our future interactions with technology, contributing to the film's enduring modernity and relevance.
THE FASHION IN CLUELESS: Fashion plays a significant role in Clueless. Cher and Dionne’s plaid outfits have become iconic, inspiring numerous designers over the years in creating new collections. Cher’s yellow plaid outfit, in particular, has become a true pop culture reference. This influence is evident in Iggy Azalea’s 2014 music video Fancy, a tribute to Clueless where the singer dons the same outfit as Cher. The film's fashion continues to inspire and shape trends, cementing its place in the collective imagination.
Costume designer Mona May did an excellent job with the looks in the film, taking inspiration from European catwalks and going in the opposite direction of the grunge aesthetic so popular at the time, while retaining some of its elements, like plaid. Amy Heckerling said, “Plaid had made a comeback obviously because of grunge. You know, these things are always coming and going: stripes, polka dot, plaid.” Mona May added: “[To Amy] it was very important that they’re not in runway shows, they’re not models. They’re real teenagers and we have to bring that fashion to the reality of their environment: who they are, where they are, how old they are. […] What was fun about this movie and maybe not having a lot of money, it made me more creative. I had to go to the thrift store. I had to go to high-end stores. I had to make some stuff and create things because they were not even in the stores, because they were just being thought out and dreamed up by the designers on the runway shows. It was really a mixture of high and low fashion, which, interestingly enough, now is so in and so cool. But then it wasn’t really happening yet.”
Plaid outfits are back-to-school essentials, making Cher's yellow plaid ensemble, a Jean Paul Gaultier original, an especially fitting choice. The knee-length stockings were selected by director Amy Heckerling, who has always loved this type of garment, inspired by Cabaret (1972) and many films from the 1920s. As costume designer Mona May observed:
“The outfits are endearing. They really are schoolgirl, even though they are high fashion. There’s so much plaid in the film, there’s so much skirt, there’s so much vest. I think that’s part of, maybe, the staying power, too, of the film. It just is innocent. It is something quintessentially timeless. It is the schoolgirl in the plaid skirt – you know, added with the stockings, of course, and all the fashionable hats and berets, making it more high fashion. It will never go out of style.”
The hats featured in Clueless were crafted by hat-maker Kokin, with Stacey Dash particularly fond of the one her character wears, noting that "the clothes were really a character in the film." Cher's wardrobe includes memorable pieces like the Calvin Klein strapless slip dress in the iconic scene before her date with Christian, as well as the long red Azzedine Alaïa dress worn at the Valley Christmas party, which leave a lasting impression on viewers.
Amber's outfits appear to be straight off haute couture runways, each impeccably styled. In contrast, Tai's fashion reflects her artistic personality. Both Cher and Tai wear red during the Christmas party, a deliberate choice by the director to reflect the color palette of Clueless mirroring the four seasons.
In Clueless, the male characters' fashion choices reflect diverse styles popular in the '90s. Many extras sport baggy pants, a trend prevalent among teenagers at the time. Travis and Murray embody the hip hop and skateboarder aesthetics of their era. Travis, hailing from a wealthy background, sports Armani shirts and Missoni sweaters, mirroring Cher's affluent style.
Josh's wardrobe contrasts with the others, showcasing a collegiate and intellectual flair. His attire includes T-shirts, such as the Amnesty International one, that Paul Rudd would also wear in real life. Christian's character evokes a vintage charm reminiscent of Frank Sinatra, with outfits inspired by 1940s jackets and pants. The addition of a black T-shirt gives a modern twist to his classic ensemble, lending him a contemporary James Dean vibe. These fashion choices not only define the characters but also underscore the film's eclectic style palette.
VISUAL AESTHETICS AND MUSIC CHOICES IN CLUELESS: The visual aesthetic of Clueless has indeed influenced subsequent films, such as the black comedy Do Revenge (2022). Much credit for this aesthetic impact goes to cinematographer Bill Pope, whose work on Clueless left a lasting impression. He reflected on his experience, “I said to the director: « You’ve got to tell me what you want this movie to look like. Can you describe it? Give me the descriptive words.» At the end of the conversation, she said: «You know what? The word is happy. I want this thing to be happy. I don’t want any sadness. I want complete happiness throughout this whole movie. I want it to be suffused with happiness.»” Amy Heckerling also stated: “One of the movies that looked like it was California rich people and funny and happy was Shampoo (1975).” Bill Pope's brilliance in cinematography elevated Clueless, paying meticulous attention to detail and capturing the film's stunning fashion. The result is a visually captivating experience that uplifts viewers, drawing them into its vibrant world.
The Clueless Original Soundtrack, which I purchased in vinyl format, is a nostalgic treasure trove of iconic 1990s songs. Released by Capitol Records, it features a mix of alternative rock, pop, rap, and retro covers that defined the era. Certified platinum, the soundtrack was a massive success. Notable tracks include Kids in America by The Muffs, which opens the film, and Counting Crows' The Ghost In You, a nod to Amy Heckerling's fondness for ‘80s songs. Rollin' With My Homies by Coolio adds to the soundtrack's appeal, prominently featured during the Val party scene in the film.
THE IMPACT OF CLUELESS ON TEEN MOVIES AND FASHION TRENDS: Clueless was not only a massive box office hit but also a trendsetter that influenced a plethora of teen comedies released in subsequent years. The film's impact extended beyond the screen, spawning various merchandise like the iconic "As if!" T-shirt and a CD-ROM for Windows 95 that allowed users to create virtual closets.
Following Clueless's success, Wes Craven's teen horror Scream (1996) also contributed to revitalizing films aimed at young audiences. Before Clueless, teenagers primarily found representation on TV shows like Saved By The Bell (1989-1992) and Beverly Hills 90210 (1990-2000), with the '80s dominated by John Hughes films.
The impact of Clueless on fashion has indeed endured over time, with the film being hailed by The Guardian as "the best fashion film ever made." In contrast to the grunge and baggy clothes that defined the early 1990s, Cher's iconic style reintroduced preppy fashion and popularized a feminine aesthetic featuring pleated skirts, sweater vests, and knee-high socks.
Cher's fashionable wardrobe in Clueless has served as a significant source of inspiration for designers across decades. This timeless look has been prominently featured in numerous popular movies and TV shows, such as Gossip Girl (2007-2012), continuing to influence contemporary fashion trends.
The film's ability to blend high fashion with accessible, relatable style elements has cemented its place as a cultural touchstone in the realm of fashion, showcasing how a film can not only entertain but also shape trends and influence popular culture.
Cher’s character is pure girl power, and her self-confidence has helped many women and young girls find new ways to express themselves and make them realize that they can be powerful without giving up their own femininity. Alicia Silverstone said of her character, “Cher was smart and helpful and passionate and creative and very full of heart. I think she sends the message that you really can change, especially if you have the willingness and earnestness to do it.”
Moreover, the friendship between Cher and Dionne stands as one of the most exemplary portrayals of female friendship ever seen on the silver screen. Their friendship in the film is portrayed with authenticity and depth, showcasing loyalty, support, and humor amidst the ups and downs of teenage life. Cher and Dionne's relationship transcends typical on-screen friendships, offering a positive and empowering portrayal of female camaraderie. Their dynamic not only enriches the narrative of Clueless but also contributes to its enduring appeal as a beloved classic that continues to inspire audiences worldwide.