Dolce&Gabbana: From The Heart To The Hands - Part I: Celebrating Fashion Craftsmanship
Dolce&Gabbana: From the Heart to the Hands is one of the most successful and talked-about fashion retrospectives of all time. Since its opening last April in Milan, it has attracted an incredible number of visitors. Held at the Palazzo Reale, this retrospective offers a deep dive into the creative minds of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, showcasing the brand's most iconic creations. It tells the story of their creative process, from initial inspiration to the meticulous handmade realization of their designs.
I had the opportunity to visit the exhibition on a Thursday morning in June and getting to see some of the brand's most intricate and elaborate haute couture pieces up close was truly exciting! Dolce and Gabbana collaborate with numerous master artisans who embody Italian handmade excellence. Their haute couture echoes traditional techniques from various Italian regions; the iridescent embroideries reflect the hues of Capri's majolica tiles, while the sunglasses and scarves evoke the glamour of the Dolce Vita era. Architectural elements from Apulian trulli and basketry techniques are transposed into intricate fabric inlays and embroidered appliqués, forming images of Florence's Cathedral or Palazzo Vecchio. Embroidery, lace, and trimmings enhance the refinement of the dresses, revealing the designers' expertise in tailoring, draping, and corsetry.
The first hall of the retrospective features numerous works by Anh Duong, a French artist of Spanish and Vietnamese descent; her collaboration with Dolce&Gabbana epitomizes the fusion of art and fashion. Duong is known for her self-portraits, where she models the brand's haute couture and high jewelry, set against iconic Italian backdrops such as Milan, Capri, Naples, Lake Como, and Agrigento.
In the second exhibition room, the focus shifts to the art and craftsmanship of glass. Here, clothes, mirrors, and chandeliers interplay in a reflective dialogue, illustrating a significant source of inspiration for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The haute couture collection presented in Venice, with creations embroidered with crystals, pays tribute to the city's glassmaking tradition; the room features mirrored surfaces, glass embroideries, and silver gowns, which sparkle alongside the chandeliers of Barbini and Barovier&Toso, two of the oldest artisanal companies. The sound of glassmaking provides a captivating background, enhancing the viewer's experience.
Among the retrospective’s highlights are two halls that left a lasting impression on me. One is dedicated to the film The Leopard by Luchino Visconti, based on Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa's famous novel. This masterpiece portrays the transition from tradition to modernity, reflecting Domenico Dolce's Sicilian heritage and attachment to his roots. The hall reinterprets the Galleria degli Specchi of Palermo's Palazzo Gangi, where the famous dance scene was filmed. Clips from the movie appear on mirrors, showing Alain Delon, Claudia Cardinale, and Burt Lancaster in iconic roles. The haute couture dress from the Palermo Collection, adorned with catbirds from Palazzo Gangi, stands out as one of the duo’s most beautiful and creative works.
Another compelling area is the Devotion section, which shines with unique splendor. Many of Dolce&Gabbana's creations feature the sacred heart motif, symbolizing life and love. Alta Moda, Alta Sartoria, and Alta Gioielleria pieces here are true works of wearable art, representing the quest for excellence that unites artisans and designers. The shining gold models recall the Baroque theatricality, with dresses inspired by the wood-carved figures of the 1600s and 1700s, enveloped in a mystical atmosphere.
The retrospective area dedicated to the ateliers offers a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at Dolce&Gabbana's work. It reminded me of the Hermès: Behind The Scenes experience, where the Hermès fashion house showcased the craftsmanship of its iconic creations through a traveling exhibition. Although no artisans are present during the Dolce&Gabbana retrospective, the displayed objects vividly conjure their presence. The ateliers, true laboratories of cutting-edge research and custodians of ancient techniques, are the vibrant heart of the fashion house. Here, designs come to life through the artisans' skillful interpretations.
Located in the heart of Milan, the ateliers are set in large rooms overlooking a vast tree-lined interior garden. About 120 people work to create handmade clothes exclusively for each client. Dolce&Gabbana combines traditional and innovative techniques, such as collage, allowing nature or art history images to be transposed onto garments; this technique has brought some of the maison's most celebrated ideas to life. Simultaneously, old craftsmanship techniques, like small-stitch embroidery, have made a comeback as well. Some ateliers were temporarily moved to the Palazzo Reale for the retrospective, offering the public a glimpse into the creative process (within this section there are also two interactive videos showing both the process of embroidery and watchmaking). The black dresses under construction highlight the importance of this color in Dolce&Gabbana's artistic journey; for the designers, black represents essentiality and purity, allowing every woman to assert her personality.
The fashion retrospective Dolce&Gabbana: From the Heart to the Hands is incredibly vast, making it challenging to capture the entire viewing experience in one article. Stay tuned for part two, coming soon!